This guide confirms the correct oil specs for the 2014 Forester so your engine stays protected during everyday U.S. driving. It covers both primary engine setups and explains why choosing the right motor fluid matters for performance and long-term durability.
Quick preview: you will find fast facts on capacities and viscosities, then step-by-step advice on how to pick the right product and perform an oil change. Most modern models use synthetic motor oil; turbo versions and non-turbo versions call for different viscosity grades. Using the wrong grade can harm the engine and lead to costly repairs.
Navigation promise: first identify your engine, then confirm capacity and recommended grade, review tools, and follow the how-to process with inspection tips. Always check the owner manual or call a service department when unsure, and handle oil checks and changes carefully to avoid spills, stripped threads, or leaks.
Key Takeaways
- Confirm engine type before choosing oil to match recommended viscosity.
- Turbo and non-turbo models use different synthetic grades for best protection.
- Follow the owner manual or contact a dealer if you’re unsure.
- Proper oil selection helps performance, durability, and reduces repair risk.
- Inspect for leaks and use correct tools to avoid stripped threads or spills.
Identify Your 2014 Subaru Forester Engine Before Choosing Oil
Knowing your engine family is the first step to picking the correct oil for safe operation. Confirming whether you own a turbocharged XT or a normally aspirated model prevents buying the wrong motor oil and filter.
Turbocharged XT vs non-turbo models
Turbo cars deliver stronger power and run hotter. That higher heat load makes turbo engines more sensitive to oil choice.
Non-turbo models feel smoother and put less thermal stress on fluids. Drivers often notice different power delivery, throttle response, and oil service needs between the two.
Why turbo engines need oil made for higher temperatures
- Thermal stress: Turbo setups raise oil temperatures and demand better shear stability.
- Protection: The right viscosity and quality resist breakdown under load and help prevent wear.
- Verification tips: check the trim badge (XT), the VIN/engine label under the hood, or the owner’s manual to confirm the engine spec.
Make sure the oil you buy matches the engine family — capacity and recommended grade differ. Once you identify the engine, the correct capacity and oil grade are straightforward and we’ll cover them next.
2014 Subaru Forester Oil Capacity & Oil Type
Exact fill volumes and the right viscosity matter when you service the engine. Small differences change where the dipstick settles and how the motor behaves under load.
Turbo model (FA20F)
The turbo variant takes 5.4 quarts. Use synthetic motor oil 5W-30 as recommended for higher heat and stress in the turbo setup.
Normally aspirated model
The non-turbo version requires 5.1 quarts and calls for synthetic motor oil 0W-20 to help fuel economy and smooth operation.
- Most motor oil comes in five-quart jugs; buy one jug plus an extra quart for the turbo model.
- Follow the owner manual if the car has an engine swap or if you are unsure of the configuration.
- Using the correct synthetic oil viscosity protects against heat and wear, especially on turbo engines.
Practical tip: confirm the fill on the dipstick after a short run and recheck level when the engine cools.
Choosing the Right Viscosity Grade for U.S. Driving Conditions
A correct viscosity grade balances quick lubrication at startup with strong protection at operating temperature.
What oil codes mean and how viscosity changes with temperature
Viscosity describes how the fluid flows. The first number in “5W-30” shows cold flow. The lower that number, the faster the fluid moves on a cold start.
The number after the W shows thickness at engine temperature. Higher numbers keep a stronger film under heat and load.
When 0W-20 makes sense for daily driving
Choose 0W-20 for a non-turbo engine if you want the best fuel economy and quicker starts in cold climates. It helps with steady highway miles and normal commuting.
When 5W-30 is a better fit for higher heat and protection
Use 5W-30 where higher operating temperatures and heavy loads are common. This grade keeps the film strength needed during hard acceleration and extended high-speed runs.
- Engine design first: follow your engine’s spec before changing grades.
- Climate and driving second: hot summers and stop-and-go traffic increase stress over time.
- Stay consistent: keep the same grade across changes unless the manual allows alternatives—learn more in this viscosity comparison guide.
Synthetic vs Mineral Oil for the Subaru Forester Engine
Modern engine demands make the oil choice more than a routine detail. Choosing the right fluid affects wear, deposits, and how long the motor runs cleanly.
Why most modern models use synthetic motor oil
Synthetic formulas offer better stability at high temperature and resist breakdown longer than mineral alternatives. That means fewer deposits and steadier protection during hard driving.
Turbo and newer naturally aspirated engines see benefits in wear control and fuel efficiency when the correct synthetic motor oil is used. In short, it keeps the engine cleaner and lasting longer.
What to do if you’re unsure: check the owner’s manual or contact a dealership
If you bought a used car or the service history is unclear, don’t guess. Start with the owner’s manual and then contact a local dealership or qualified service shop for confirmation.
Keep receipts and note the brand and grade used. That record helps troubleshooting and helps resale value.
- Stability: synthetic resists viscosity change at temperature better than mineral.
- Cleanliness: synthetic reduces sludge and keeps engine passages clear.
- Decision guide: follow the manual, verify with a dealership if unsure, and stay consistent across changes.
- Practical note: don’t overthink it — pick the right viscosity and a reputable brand that meets manufacturer specs.
If you see unusual consumption, leaks, or oil behavior between services, contact your dealer or a trusted shop right away.
Tools, Parts, and Supplies for a 2014 Forester Oil Change
Gather the right parts and tools up front to keep the job quick and trouble-free. Having the correct items prevents delays and reduces the chance of errors during the service.
Essential parts and consumables
- Oil filter: Forester XT filter part 15208AA15A (use the correct OEM or equivalent).
- Drain plug crush ring: Subaru part 803916010 — replace this seal every change to avoid slow leaks.
- Synthetic motor oil: buy the correct grade for your engine and the right volume (see below).
How much oil to buy
Buy one five-quart jug plus an extra quart if you have the turbo XT (5.4 quarts).
Non-turbo vehicles take about 5.1 quarts, so one five-quart jug and a small bottle will do.
Basic tools and helpful upgrades
- 14mm socket or wrench for the drain plug and a drain pan large enough for a full refill.
- Filter cup wrench (Size “B” cap fits) to remove the oil filter without damage.
- Funnel, gloves, rags, and a torque wrench for final tightening (recommended torque ~30–32 ft-lbs in the next section).
- Optional: ramps for safer access and a Fumoto quick-drain valve (F-108N; 19mm wrench for install) to speed future changes.
Make sure you have a safe lifting plan—ramps or flat ground plus wheel chocks—before you start. This checklist saves time and helps the job go to the top quality level you expect.
How to Change the Oil on a 2014 Subaru Forester
Start with a short drive to bring the motor up to operating temperature; this speeds a full drain. Use caution around hot surfaces and park on level ground with the parking brake set.
Preparation: raise the car safely if needed, place a large drain pan, and gather a 14mm wrench, Size “B” filter cup, new crush ring, new filter, and recommended motor fluid.
Drain and replace the crush ring
Loosen the drain plug (14mm) and allow the oil to drain fully — often 20+ minutes for a slow, complete flow.
Wipe mating surfaces clean and fit a new crush ring before reinstalling the plug. Torque the drain plug to about 30–32 ft‑lbs. Do not over-tighten.
Filter removal and installation
Clean the filter cup area, then remove the old filter using the Size “B” cup. Ensure the old gasket is off the cup to avoid double‑gasketing.
Lightly oil the new gasket, thread the filter by hand until snug, then finish with a firm hand‑tight turn — avoid overtightening.
Refill, start-up check, and record keeping
Refill most of the required volume, then check the dipstick and top to the correct level. Start the engine and watch for leaks around the drain plug and filter.
After a short run, shut off, wait a few minutes, then recheck the level and torque if needed. Note the date and miles of the service for your next interval.
For related capacity guidance, see this quick how many quarts reference.
Conclusion
Before you close the hood, make sure the fluid and fill match the engine you identified. Identify your engine first, then match the correct volume and grade for safe operation. For the turbo XT use 5.4 quarts of synthetic 5W-30. For the non‑turbo model use 5.1 quarts of synthetic 0W-20.
Keep maintenance consistent. Regular checks and timely oil changes protect the engine during hot driving, heavy traffic, or long highway runs. Log each service to help planning and resale value.
When in doubt, follow the owner’s manual and contact a dealership or qualified service shop for confirmation. A small bit of planning now can prevent costly vehicle problems later.